Australian Geographic
Adventurers, Explorers and Trail Blazers
Install App?
Australian Geographic
inside.australiangeographic.com.au
This is how the Install App dialog will look like once your App goes live.
the snowy slopes of Victoria’s
Mt Feathertop in rose gold tones.
WONDERLAND
magnificent alpine landscapes at risk?
___________
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DON FUCHS
weight of freshly fallen snow on
Mt Hotham, VIC, as stormclouds
gather overhead.
chase the thrill of ‘freshies’ – skiing
untouched powder snow.
Two hours later, we’ve buckled up, clicked on, and made the fourth chair on the chairlift. We’re quickly whisked above the tree line and in no time the race is on! We’re in a mad dash against a hundred or so other skiers to ride the untouched snow as we tumble and bounce to the bottom of the slope.
That was the magic of my first ever “Aussie powder day”. It’s a bittersweet memory because as I stand here today with Professor David Karoly, a climate expert from the University of Melbourne, Dan Nicholls, an officer with the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS), and photographer Don Fuchs, it’s with the realisation that if we’re not careful, a warming climate may one day rob Australia of its snows.
My reason for this trip, which is part of a winter-long sojourn to Australia’s snow country, is to look at how our rapidly warming climate is affecting the alpine landscapes of New South Wales and Victoria.
THE AUSTRALIAN ALPS HAVE a unique beauty. Where the peaks of Europe, New Zealand and the USA soar in sky-piercing crests, these mountains are softer, rounded. Unlike those in classic alpine regions, they weren’t formed by clashing tectonic plates. Geologists still debate their origins, but a leading theory is that some 40–20 million years ago, in the most recent phase of uplift, the Earth’s mantle swelled – like a rubber mat pushed from both ends – to raise long, rounded ridges. The resulting Victorian Alps and Snowy Mountains of NSW are the only parts of mainland Australia high enough for consistent winter snow cover.
Their apparent softness is deceptive though. As David, Dan, Don and I round a rock wall, our faces are whipped by ice pellets and the wild, rugged nature of the landscape is impossible to ignore. We’re above the tree line on Rams Head, where pearly
and shark’s teeth of ice
dominate the treeless
alpine back country
near Rams Head in the
Snowy Mountains, NSW.
pearly slopes are punctuated
by dramatic, timesculpted
granite tors.
______
fast-moving clouds as skiers on
the Antons T-bar at Thredbo
make their way up the
mountain for another run.
You can access this back country on snowshoes but it’s slow going. Instead, we caught the T-bar to its highest point at 2037m before venturing up on skins and touring skis. As we continue to surge up the mountain, the curved peak of Mt Kosciuszko appears like a moonrise to our right and before long, we’re at
the summit.
The view from Rams Head is stunning but it’s at this point I realise how fragile and vulnerable Australia’s snow country really is. We’re little more than an hour’s walk above the resort and we’ve already reached the other side of the snowscape. From here, we’re looking out over vast, green forests. In the distance, tiny islands of wafer-thin white mark the Victorian snowfields, Mt Feathertop and the Bogong High Plains.
For now, we strip the skins off our skis, and in minutes we’re swooping down untouched snow into the evocatively named Enchanted Forest of snow gums below. It’s exhilarating, magical. As I curve my body in a rhythmic dance of arcing turns, I can’t help whooping aloud. This is the closest I will ever come to flying. It’s pure joy.
IT’S MORNING AND WE’RE skiing with a crew from the Thredbo Ski Patrol, an organisation that provides emergency care and rescue services to snow users (see “On patrol”, page 59). Distinctively dressed in red jackets emblazoned with white crosses, these folk hold the safety of recreational skiers and snowboarders in their gloved hands.
Not only are they responsible for emergency first aid, they also assess and mark slopes for hazards, decide which runs ►
A crackling sound comes across the radio: “A possible 1040 at the park…” I glean that 1040 is code for an accident as my patrol companion radios back. He then takes off down the slope like a rocket. To watch the calm professionalism of these patrollers at work is gratifying. With a possible injury in play, they carefully fold a yellow backboard behind their disorientated patient, then lift her onto a rescue toboggan, wrap her securely, and ski her down to the medical centre. Luckily, she’s fine.
On a busy day numerous incidents might require emergency transport, according to David Koons, director of the Thredbo Ski Patrol. Davo, as he’s known, has been patrolling here for 39 years. In 1997 he was second in command of the patrol when the Thredbo landslide occurred, collapsing two ski lodges, killing 18 people, and catapulting this small community into the national spotlight.
“It was terrible,” Davo says. “I was one of the first on scene. It was awful knowing people you knew well were in there.” He’s particularly referring to a colleague who died in the slide. “We all lost people. Many of us were traumatised afterwards. Thankfully, a truckload of counsellors descended. We got together and built the community centre. It certainly bonded us even closer as a community.”
Ski patrollers don’t just tend to humans, they also deal with resident wildlife. “We get a lot of echidnas coming out of hibernation in spring,” Davo says. “The trouble is, they have these long claws and if the public get too close, they dig into the snow and stick in the middle of a ski run for hours.” Tactical patrol responses range from erecting hazard markers to keep away skiers, to digging out echidnas – complete with chunks of snow clenched in their claws – and skiing them to safety or if necessary down to the medical centre. The snow is melted away with warm air before the echidnas are carefully returned to their homes.
______
IT’S A BEAUTIFUL DRIVE as photo-grapher Don and I head up the winding Great Alpine Road towards Mount Hotham. There’s a big snowstorm coming so we’ve borrowed an all-wheel-drive Land Rover Discovery complete with snow mode to be safe. As we drive through the landscape, we cross creeks and small rivers – waterways that will eventually join the Snowy, Murray and Murrumbidgee rivers. Looking back at the spectacular Main Range I feel privileged to be here – there’s something entirely majestic about snow-topped mountains.
Gazing at iconic Mt Feathertop the next morning, I am awe-struck. The reds, pinks and deep blues that are splashed boldly across the sky are reflected on the smooth white canvas below. It’s one of the most beautiful sights I’ve seen. Later, as we head out to explore the back country of ►
P A T R O L
He stayed with Snowy Hydro for a decade. Over the years, he worked with many European ski enthusiasts and became keen to help found a new ski area in the Thredbo Valley. In the mid-1950s, Tony Sponar, who had been a ski instructor in Austria before migrating to Australia, had a vision to transform Thredbo into a ski hill. Tommy made a vow to his friend: “If you open the ski area, I will start a ski patrol.”
So in 1958, a year after the first rope tow opened at Thredbo, Tommy set up the Thredbo Ski Patrol, an organisation that still provides emergency care and rescue services to snow users.
Tommy not only founded the Thredbo Ski Patrol, he stayed with them as a volunteer for 60 years, hanging up his jacket at age 91.
During his time on the snowfields, Tommy has seen a shift in the amount of snow cover the region receives. “It really changed in the ’70s and ’80s,” he says. “The snow used to be chest high. It’s very disappointing. It has changed in Italy too.”
Tommy not only founded the Thredbo Ski Patrol, he stayed with them as a volunteer for 60 years, hanging up his jacket at age 91.
During his time on the snowfields, Tommy has seen a shift in the amount of snow cover the region receives. “It really changed in the ’70s and ’80s,” he says. “The snow used to be chest high. It’s very disappointing. It has changed in Italy too.”
Tomasi, founder of the
Thredbo Ski Patrol, looks
through the memorabilia
of decades of Australian
skiing in the Thredbo
Alpine Museum.
created by a disturbance of
a stable atmospheric layer,
dominates the sky above the
resort town of Thredbo, NSW.
Today, we visit some of the historic mountain huts that were built by graziers and goldminers as shelter from snowstorms. Keen to avoid needing their services, we keep a wary eye on those tumbling clouds as we round several huts, including Spargo’s. Built in 1828–29, it has been described as the Mawson’s Hut of the Australian Alps – a must-see for summer hikers and keen ski tourers. Tellingly, the older huts have entrances through their roofs as well as at ground level – a legacy of greater snow depths than we are seeing today.
We arrive back at the Hotham Alpine Resort just as the Sun disappears behind thick cloud cover. And then it happens! Big, glorious plates of floating snow fill the sky. Don and I have already started driving down the mountain, but we jump out of the car and excitedly cavort around like kids on red cordial.
FOR ONE AUSTRALIAN MAMMAL, snow is crucial. The mountain pygmy possum is found in just a few isolated patches of snow country in NSW and Victoria.
Mountain pygmy possums are Australia’s other true hibernator, emerging in spring to gorge on bogong moths (see page 46) and breed. The critically endangered species is threatened by feral cats, foxes, development and shrinking supplies of bogong moths. But it also faces an added threat as the snow it needs for insulation during hibernation is reducing. In addition, the species encounters obstacles to breeding. The road through Hotham had the dire effect of separating males from females that colonise higher ground than males, and the road runs smack bang through the divide. However, researchers have come up with a surprisingly successful solution: specially constructed ‘tunnels of love’ that run beneath the road. The first was built in the ’80s and the second in 2018. Cameras provide evidence the little possums are using the tunnels for trans-highway trysts.
It’s a rare success story – as is the recent translocation of Hotham possums to Mt Buller to shore up the genetics of the population there – but with only 2000 individuals left, the species remains at risk. “You can fit all the pygmy possums in the world into just two potato sacks,” says Professor John Morgan, director of the Research Centre for Applied Alpine Ecology. “They are so vulnerable, so fragile.”
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Burramys parvus
______
As well as reducing snow cover, climate change will increase fires in alpine areas, dramatically changing the flora and fauna, says John. Another species that likely wouldn’t survive in a warmer world is the snow gum. Those twisting, sculptural, multicoloured trees have adorned every vista during our visit to Australia’s winterland. “They’re perfectly adapted to snow life,” says John. “Their branches are pliable – made for bowing under a weight of snow. Their seeds need cold. Other
eucalypts germinate after fire – alpine snow gums germinate after snow.” There are 300-plus species of unique Australian flora and fauna that exist inside the snowline that don’t exist below.
We stare morosely at graphs that show how even the years with heavier snowfall have seen declines in snow volumes over time. David explains that although the last three seasons have been good, it’s likely because of the drought – we’ve had clear, cloudless skies at night, which means below-freezing temperatures and less rain have kept what snow has fallen in place.
If current emissions trends continue, we are on track to see a temperature rise of between 4°C and 5°C in the Australian Alps by the end of the century – alpine areas are heating at a faster rate than lowlands. Six different sophisticated ►
❷ THREDBO ALPINE MUSEUM: A must-visit for history buffs, featuring memorabilia of Australian snow life going back to the 19th century.
❸ JINDABYNE VISITOR CENTRE: A trove of information on local flora and fauna, as well as Aboriginal history.
❹ CHARLOTTE PASS: Surrounded by snow gums, this is the highest village in the Snowy Mountains. It’s snowbound in winter and only accessible by Oversnow Transport. At its heart is the grand old lady of the mountains, the Kosciuszko Chalet Hotel, opened in 1930.
❺ LAKE CRACKENBACK: This stunning lakeside village offers access to Perisher and Thredbo ski resorts, and nearby food and beverage attractions.
❻ MOUNT HOTHAM: This spectacular mountaintop village with views of Mt Feathertop is a downhill skiing mecca. Or take a back country ski tour and visit historic mountain huts, originally built by goldminers and graziers as refuges from blizzards.
❽ DINNER PLAIN: Kilometres of crosscountry ski trails, a beginners’ ski slope, an annual dogsled race and an authentic Onsen (Japanese hot spring) make this a popular winter destination.
❾ FALLS CREEK: To explore the glorious Bogong High Plains, take an exhilarating snowmobile tour.
❿ MOUNT BULLER: If you are not a skier, try tobogganing, or a family day of snow play in the southern reaches of the Australian Alps.
⓫ MOUNT BUFFALO NP: Dramatic granite tors and sheer cliffs make for a spectacular experience. Camp on the shores of Lake Catani and enjoy snow-gum woodlands and meeting wombats.
deteriorate quickly in the
mountains, so special care
and forward preparations
are advised.
Australia’s snow country home.
People have inhabited Australia’s alpine regions for at least 20,000 years. The NSW High Country has long been home to the Ngarigu and Walgalu people while the Victorian High Country is the year-round home for the Gunaikurnai, Dhudoroa and Jaitmathang people. “We are snow country people,” says Jakelin. “I think that’s why I took to skiing straightaway,” she adds. “In fact, a Ngarigu woman started the first ski lodge in Thredbo back in 1956. That was my mother, who’s now 91.”
Dwellings ranged from stone huts, observed by early Europeans across the NSW High Country, to the abundant caves scattering the region. Homes were warmed by fires, and dingoes would have slept inside, providing body heat.
While settlements favoured sheltered valleys,
the glorious snow-capped mountains held profound spiritual significance. Songlines run through them. Ceremonies were held on mountain peaks – the famous bogong moth festivals, where clans gathered from as far afield as the coast to dance and feast, were held in spring and summer when the nutritious moths were abundant.
to truly appreciate the
wild beauty of Australia's
unique snow country;
writer Jonica Newby and
Danny Foster explore the
Victorian Alps
SPEAKING TO STUART DIVER, one of the most inspiring characters I meet during this trip to the mountains, fills me with hope that we can prevent this future. Stuart shot to national fame for the worst of reasons. He survived the 1997 Thredbo landslide that killed his wife and 17 others, spending three days in a coffin-like space under the rubble before being found alive. After the landslide, the ski instructor didn’t leave the land of his trauma but stayed in his mountain community. Last year, he became general manager of the Thredbo Ski Resort.
“I just believe they are a really spiritual place,” he says, when I ask what drew him to the mountains. “It’s easy to love. They also attract like-minded people who love the place and that makes great communities.”
Snow country and its people helped Stuart survive his trauma and moreover thrive, and it’s that same mountain spirit he’s harnessing to fight climate change.
In July last year, Thredbo became the first snow resort in Australia – only the second in the world – to power all its major on-mountain resort operations with renewable energy. “Every big corporation should be doing the same,” he says. “We need to put pressure on energy providers to promote renewable energy rather than any other form.”
While Stuart is confident ever more advanced snowmaking will keep the ski resorts thriving, he’s aware the future of his beloved Australian snow country hangs in the balance.
“If you have a passion for the mountains, if you care about the place, then you have to do everything you can to make it sustainable,” he says.
THE LAST GREAT WILDERNESS
Indigenous rangers, scientists, conservationists and pastoralists are working together to ensure the Kimberley remains one of the world’s great wildlife havens.
Ultimate survivor
The short-beaked echidna is found from deserts to mountain peaks; from Tasmania, across the Australian mainland to southern New Guinea. Its unique backwards-pointing feet give it an advantage when digging. Echidnas also use extended claws on the second toes of the hind feet to scratch and groom between the spines.
WALKING WITH FIRE
Linton Burgess performs a traditional dance during patrula, a return of important cultural fire practices to farmland on the midland plains of Tasmania for the first time in 200 years.
Running Man Rock
IT WAS ABOUT SIX YEARS ago that I first discovered him, purely by chance. At an hour and a half out of Sydney, my commercial flight turned north-west towards Darwin. And there he was in all his rampant majesty. Running Man Rock, I call him.
Travel with us
It’s one of Earth’s most complex natural systems, home to countless animals. And to the rest of the world it’s one of the most identifiably Australian places. We all know what it is – the Great Barrier Reef (GBR)– and that it’s under pressure. But how can we frame its intricate natural architecture in a new way that inspires people to love it enough to care about its future?